How to Fix a Garbage Disposal (Jammed, Humming, Leaking, or Dead)

A garbage disposal that stops working is almost never a reason to call a plumber. In 90% of cases, the fix takes less than 10 minutes, costs nothing, and requires no special tools. Even a disposal that seems completely dead usually just needs a reset.

Here are the four most common garbage disposal problems and exactly how to fix each one.

Safety First

Before putting your hand near a garbage disposal:

1. Turn it off at the wall switch.
2. Unplug the unit under the sink if it has a plug. If it is hardwired, turn off the breaker.
3. Never put your hand inside the disposal. Use pliers, tongs, or the included Allen wrench instead.

Problem 1: Disposal Is Jammed (Humming but Not Spinning)

You flip the switch, hear a humming sound, but the disposal does not grind. This means the motor is getting power but the grinding plate is stuck.

The fix:

1. Turn off the disposal and unplug it (or kill the breaker).
2. Look underneath the disposal. There is a hex socket in the center of the bottom. Insert the Allen wrench that came with the disposal (1/4 inch for most brands) or use a standard 1/4-inch Allen wrench.
3. Turn the wrench back and forth. This manually rotates the grinding plate and frees whatever is jamming it.
4. Once it turns freely, look into the disposal with a flashlight. Use pliers or tongs to remove the object causing the jam (a bone, fruit pit, piece of glass, or utensil).
5. Plug it back in, run cold water, and test.

No Allen wrench and no hex socket? Insert a wooden broom handle into the disposal from above. Press it against the grinding plate and try to rotate it. This works the same way as the Allen wrench method.

Still jammed after freeing it? Press the reset button on the bottom of the unit (see Problem 4), then try again.

Problem 2: Disposal Is Leaking

Water under the sink when the disposal runs usually comes from one of three connection points.

Find the leak source first. Dry everything under the sink with a towel. Place a dry paper towel or newspaper under the disposal. Run water and turn on the disposal. Check where the water appears:

Leak from the top (sink flange)

The mounting ring that connects the disposal to the sink drain has loosened or the plumber’s putty seal has failed.

Fix: Tighten the mounting bolts under the sink flange. If still leaking, disconnect the disposal, remove the flange, clean off the old putty, apply a fresh rope of plumber’s putty around the flange lip, and reinstall. Cost: $3 for putty.

Leak from the side (dishwasher connection or drain pipe)

The hose clamp on the dishwasher inlet or the bolts on the drain pipe connection have loosened.

Fix: Tighten the hose clamp on the dishwasher hose with a screwdriver. For the drain pipe, tighten the two bolts on the discharge pipe flange. If the gasket between the discharge pipe and the disposal is worn, replace it ($2-3).

Leak from the bottom

This usually means an internal seal has failed. On older disposals (8+ years), this often means the unit is at end of life.

Fix: Unfortunately, internal seal failure is not a practical repair. Replace the disposal. A basic 1/3 HP unit costs $60-80. A good 3/4 HP unit costs $100-175. Replacement takes 30-60 minutes.

Problem 3: Disposal Drains Slowly

The disposal grinds but water backs up into the sink or drains very slowly.

The fix:

1. Turn off the disposal.
2. Check if the drain pipe from the disposal to the wall is clogged. Disconnect the discharge pipe (the pipe running from the side of the disposal to the P-trap or wall drain). Place a bucket underneath first.
3. Check the P-trap for clogs. Remove it and clean it out.
4. If the clog is further down the wall pipe, use a drain snake to clear it. Our guide on how to unclog a drain without chemicals covers five methods that work.
5. Reassemble everything and test.

Prevention: Always run cold water for 15-20 seconds after turning off the disposal. This flushes ground waste through the drain pipe. Most slow-drain issues come from not running enough water during and after grinding.

Problem 4: Disposal Is Completely Dead (No Sound at All)

You flip the switch and nothing happens — no hum, no sound, nothing.

Check these in order:

Step 1: Press the reset button

Look at the bottom of the disposal unit. There is a small red or black button. If the motor overheated or overloaded, this thermal breaker trips. Press it until it clicks. Try the switch again.

This single step fixes the problem about 50% of the time.

Step 2: Check the outlet

Unplug the disposal and plug in something else (a phone charger, lamp, etc.) to verify the outlet works. If the outlet is dead, check your breaker panel. Disposals are often on a shared circuit with the dishwasher, and a tripped breaker kills both.

Step 3: Check the wall switch

Disposal wall switches can fail. If the outlet has power (tested above) but the disposal does not respond to the switch, the switch may need replacing. You can test by temporarily plugging the disposal directly into a different outlet with an extension cord. If it runs, the wall switch is the problem. Replacing a switch costs $2-5. While you are under the sink, check the faucet connections too — here is how to fix a leaky faucet if you spot any drips.

Step 4: Check the power cord connection

If the disposal is hardwired (no plug), the wire nuts inside the connection box on the bottom of the unit may have loosened. Turn off the breaker, remove the cover plate on the connection box, and verify the wire connections are tight.

If none of the above works

The motor has likely burned out. On disposals older than 8-10 years, replacement is more cost-effective than repair. On newer units, check if the warranty is still active (many come with 2-5 year warranties).

Things You Should Never Put in a Garbage Disposal

These items cause jams, clogs, or damage:

• Grease, oil, or fat — solidifies in pipes and causes clogs
• Bones (large ones) — small chicken bones are fine, beef bones are not
• Fruit pits — peach, avocado, and cherry pits are too hard
• Fibrous vegetables — celery, artichokes, corn husks, and asparagus wrap around the grinding plate
• Pasta and rice — expand with water and create paste-like clogs
• Coffee grounds — accumulate in pipes like sediment
• Eggshells — the membrane can wrap around the grinder (debated, but better safe)
• Non-food items — obvious but worth stating

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Replace your disposal if:

• It is leaking from the bottom (internal seal failure)
• The motor does not respond after checking power, reset, and connections
• It is more than 10 years old and having repeated issues
• It makes loud metallic grinding noises even with nothing jammed (bearing failure)

A new disposal costs $60-175 for the unit. DIY installation takes 30-60 minutes. A plumber charges $150-300 for the same job. Add a disposal check to your annual home maintenance schedule to catch issues early.

Estimated Savings

	DIY Fix	Plumber
Jam or reset	Free (5 min)	$100-200
Leak repair	$0-5 (10 min)	$100-200
Full replacement	$60-175 (45 min)	$250-450