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How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Front Door? (2026 Price Guide)

Front door replacement costs $500-5,000+ depending on material, style, and installation. Here is a detailed breakdown so you know what to expect.

Your front door is the first thing visitors see and the last line of defense against break-ins, weather, and energy loss. A door that sticks, drafts, has visible damage, or just looks tired drags down your entire home’s curb appeal and resale value.

Replacing a front door typically costs $1,000-2,500 installed for a standard entry door. Here is a full breakdown of what drives that number up or down.

Cost Summary

ComponentBudgetMid-RangeHigh-End
Door (slab or prehung)$150-400$400-1,500$1,500-5,000+
Installation labor$200-400$300-600$500-1,000
Hardware (knob, deadbolt)$30-80$80-250$250-600
Weatherstripping and threshold$20-50IncludedIncluded
Paint or stain$20-50 (DIY)$50-100$100-200
Total installed$420-980$830-2,450$2,350-6,800

Door Materials Compared

Steel ($150-500 for the door)

The most common and affordable option. Modern steel doors have a foam-insulated core that makes them more energy-efficient than wood. They resist warping, cracking, and swelling.

Pros: Lowest cost, best security (hardest to kick in), excellent insulation, low maintenance. Steel is also one of the most eco-friendly home improvement choices due to its recyclability and insulation value.

Cons: Can dent on impact. Scratches show and require touch-up paint. Will rust if the paint chips and is not addressed, especially in coastal areas.

Best for: Budget-conscious homeowners, high-security areas, and anyone who wants low maintenance.

Fiberglass ($300-2,000 for the door)

Fiberglass doors can be smooth or textured to look like real wood grain. They do not warp, rot, crack, swell, or rust. Many come pre-stained or paintable.

Pros: Looks like wood without the maintenance. Will not rot or warp in any climate. Dents less easily than steel. Good insulation with a foam core.

Cons: More expensive than steel. High-end fiberglass can approach wood pricing. Some cheaper fiberglass doors have a plasticky look up close.

Best for: Homeowners who want a wood look without wood maintenance, especially in humid or extreme climates.

Wood ($500-5,000+ for the door)

Solid wood doors are the most visually striking option. Species range from affordable pine and fir to premium mahogany, walnut, and cherry. Custom designs with glass inserts, carvings, or ironwork can run well above $5,000.

Pros: Unmatched aesthetic. Can be refinished repeatedly. Adds significant curb appeal and perceived home value. Available in unlimited custom designs.

Cons: Requires regular maintenance (refinishing every 1-3 years depending on climate and exposure). Swells and sticks in humidity. Can warp over time. Least secure against forced entry unless reinforced. Poor insulation compared to foam-core steel or fiberglass.

Best for: Homeowners who prioritize aesthetics and are willing to maintain the door.

Prehung vs. Slab

Prehung door — The door comes already mounted in a new frame. The installer removes your old door and frame entirely, then sets the new unit into the rough opening. This is the standard approach for exterior door replacement and costs $100-300 more than a slab but results in a better fit and seal.

Slab only — Just the door panel, no frame. The installer must modify it to fit your existing frame and transfer the hinges and hardware. This saves money only if your existing frame is in perfect condition, which is uncommon on older homes.

Recommendation: Go prehung for exterior doors. The frame, weatherstripping, and threshold are engineered to work together. Trying to fit a new slab into an old frame often creates gaps, sticking, and air leaks that cost more to fix than the frame savings.

Installation Cost Factors

Standard installation ($200-600): Removing the old door and frame, installing the prehung unit, shimming and leveling, insulating the gap between the frame and rough opening, installing hardware, and adjusting the strike plate.

Additional costs that may apply:

  • Resizing the rough opening: If your new door is a different size than the old one, the opening needs to be framed larger or smaller. This adds $200-500 and may require drywall or siding repair.
  • Sidelight installation: Adding glass panels on one or both sides of the door. Sidelights cost $200-600 each plus $100-200 for installation.
  • Transom window: A window above the door. Adds $150-400 plus installation.
  • Rot repair: If the rough opening framing has rot or water damage, it must be repaired before the new door goes in. Budget $100-500 depending on extent.
  • Storm door addition: A storm door protects the entry door and adds insulation. Budget $150-400 installed.
  • Smart doorbell: Pairing a new door with a smart doorbell installation adds security and curb appeal.

DIY or Hire a Pro?

Replacing a front door is an intermediate DIY project. It is doable if you are comfortable with measuring, leveling, shimming, and basic carpentry. The critical part is getting the door plumb and level so it opens, closes, and latches properly.

DIY saves: $200-600 in labor.

DIY risks: A poorly installed door will not seal correctly (drafts, water intrusion), will not latch reliably (security issue), and may damage the door or frame (voiding the warranty). If the door does not fit the rough opening, corrections require carpentry skill.

Hire a pro if: The rough opening needs resizing, there is structural damage around the opening, you are installing sidelights or a transom, or you have never hung a door before. A bad front door installation is highly visible and affects security and energy efficiency daily.

Return on Investment

Front door replacement consistently ranks among the top home improvements for ROI. According to Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value report, a steel entry door replacement recoups approximately 100% of its cost at resale — one of the few projects that pays for itself entirely.

A new front door also reduces heating and cooling costs by $50-100 per year if your current door is poorly insulated or has significant air leaks. For more ways to cut energy loss, see our guide to winterizing your home.

When to Replace vs. Repair

Replace if:

  • The door is warped, cracked, or has visible rot
  • You feel drafts even with new weatherstripping
  • The door does not latch securely
  • The frame is damaged or out of square
  • You want to change the style or size

Repair if:

  • The door and frame are structurally sound but need cosmetic work
  • Hardware is the only issue (hinges, lockset, or threshold can be replaced individually)
  • Weatherstripping replacement solves the draft issue
  • A fresh coat of paint or stain is all that is needed